Flour Lab by Adam Leonti & Katie Parla

Author:Adam Leonti & Katie Parla [Leonti, Adam]
Language: eng
Format: azw3
Publisher: Potter/Ten Speed/Harmony/Rodale
Published: 2019-09-09T16:00:00+00:00

As an alternative to farro and durum—if, for example, you have only a weak flour, such as a soft spring wheat—you can build strength by laminating the dough: fold the pasta and pass it through a pasta machine a total of 25 times. Since you’re folding and turning, you create strength through a sort of cross-hatching.

WHOLE-EGG DOUGH FOR TAGLIATELLE, MALTAGLIATI, PAPPARDELLE, AND TAGLIOLINI

MAKES ABOUT 800 GRAMS (1¾ POUNDS) PASTA

At Vetri we used one dough for all our fresh pastas, whether we were making ravioli, pappardelle, or fettuccine. We used only egg yolks. When I departed for Bergamo to work at Osteria della Brughiera, I figured I would find a similar yolk-rich approach to their dough, maybe applied to some highly regional pasta shape I had never seen. But when I arrived, what I saw blew my mind. They used freshly milled flour—remember, I didn’t really know what that meant yet, but the flavor was incredible—and no two pasta recipes were identical. Of course now this makes total sense to me: each dough was adapted to its singular use. The chefs’ use of whole eggs instead of just yolks also clicked for me because it resulted in zero waste, a mirror of how most Bergamaschi actually cook. A whole egg has more water than a yolk alone has, and it also has more protein. The protein from the egg white gives strength and helps to make an al dente noodle when combined with soft spring wheats like Frederick or Sonora, which aren’t ideal for yolk-only noodles because of their low protein content. Shapes like tagliatelle, maltagliati, pappardelle, and tagliolini need the strength from this protein; otherwise the noodles will break.

VARIATIONS

Replace the soft spring wheat flour with 375 grams Redeemer wheat flour and 125 grams einkorn flour. Einkorn has lots of flavor but little strength, so it works in perfect harmony with a strong and comparatively bland Redeemer flour.

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